Mussels are back

We put mussels back on dinner this week after a call from Calder Fish Co-op. The co-op had a fresh delivery from cooler water and could send us a small batch in the morning. We asked for enough for one service first, so we could check the shells and cooking yield before adding a regular order.

The crates arrive on ice. We move the mussels into shallow trays in the refrigerator, with a damp cloth over them and room for air. Before prep, we discard broken shells and check that any open mussels close when tapped. We pull away the beards and scrub the shells under cold running water.

The morning order

The co-op calls before we settle the fish order. We ask when the mussels were harvested, how they were stored and when the next delivery is expected. That conversation decides how many portions we can put on the board. We would rather run out at the end of dinner than hold a large order for another day.

We also check the rest of the fish delivery at the same time. Whole fish goes onto a separate tray, and shellfish stays covered on its own shelf. Once the delivery is put away, we clean the receiving bench before the pasta work starts.

Cooking one bowl

At service, garlic goes into a wide pot with olive oil. We add white wine, let it boil briefly, then tip in the mussels and cover the pot. A shake moves the shells through the steam. We lift the lid to check them and remove the mussels as they open, rather than leaving the first ones to shrink while the last ones cook.

Any shells that remain closed are discarded. Chopped parsley goes into the broth at the end, and the bowl is served beside beef meatballs and fresh pasta. The meatballs are cooked separately so their sauce does not hide the shellfish broth.

We suggest Vermentino, Liguria with the plate. There is enough lemon and salt in the glass to work with the mussels, while the wine stays light beside the pasta. Ask us before ordering if you need a shellfish-free meal; we will talk through another dish and the kitchen’s shared equipment.